Poof! I still I’m still here!
Wow, Christmas kicked my butt. I’ve still got visions of laser engraved acrylic sports team boxes stuck in my head. I just can’t shake it! Get out of my head!!!! argghhh!!!…um..er..sorry.
Well, I hope everyone has enjoyed the holidays thoroughly, cuz now it’s time to get back to work. And when I say work, I mean model building! And how could model building ever be considered as work? Well, it’s not…. I just added that statement to create meaningless fluff for my blog.
I’ve continued working on Build #2′s saucer as of late, as well as installing the DLM resin impulse deck and Magnatomic Flux grill thingies on the nacelles. So, where to begin? Let’s start with some unfinished business with the B/C deck windows. As you’ll recall, I’ve been replacing the kit supplied styrene windows with laser cut acrylic versions. I put off doing the B/C deck windows until now because I knew they were going to take a bit more work than the rest. The holes are rather misshaped and misplaced, not to mention misaligned. It’s difficult to see in the picture below, but they’re located so low, that they actually get into the “lip” of the indented area.
Also, notice how the forward portholes are practically touching the square, raised hatch (is that what they are?) details? Well, I just had to do something about that! So, I pulled out the Apoxie sculpt and filled in all the windows. After that cured overnight, I sanded everything down flush, and cut out new holes. The raised hatch detail I just mentioned got lost in the sanding but will be replaced later. I lasered out some new acrylic windows, and everything was good.
Notice also the 3mm LEDs are now installed for the bridge spotlights. They’re bright little fellows, but trust me, they won’t illuminate the upper registry markings. For that I’ll be attempting the “Raytheon” technique …illumination from underneath. More on that later. I”m sure it will prove to be entertaining.
Next, I installed the DLM replacement impulse deck. I could simply have glued it in place and been done with it, but I decided to go the more accurate route and thin the upper lip, which is molded into the saucer so it would match the new part. As usual, time consuming, but worth it in the end.
Now it was time to glue the saucer rim pieces in place around the upper half. Pretty straightforward here, just line ‘em up and glue ‘em in place.
That's right. I'm using the famous Raytheon "toothpick" technique.
An interesting (well, not really) side effect of the sanding and filing I did to the upper impulse deck lip is that it raises the impulse engine. This will, of course, create gaps when the primary hull is attached to the dorsal. Not a big deal really, I knew that would happen and am prepared to deal with it. But, apparently I didn’t think hard enough to predict this:
Not a problem. I’ll be backing the gaps with styrene and doing some fill and sand. Anything for accuracy! Right?
Pet Peeve #465: In a model kit designed to be lit, why do they block off all the windows around the saucer circumference with styrene molding? I suppose there’s a good reason, and I’m guessing it’s technical. Either way, it’s a pain in the butt, and it’s got to go. Especially if one intends to build light boxes.
After attacking the molding with every cutting utensil at my disposal (except my teeth, perhaps), it ends up looking like this. I’ve still got some clean-up to do, as usual. But, it’ll work.
Now, let’s jump from the front of the ship back to the nacelles. Here are the stock Magnatomic flux grills.
eh, whatever
And, here it is after being attacked by me and my drill.
Cut the piece out and you get this:
Sand and file that all down, drop the replacement part in, glue it down, do a bit of puttying and sanding…dance a little jig, and you get something a little like this:
Oh yeah…and repeat three more times to complete both nacelles.
Ok, I’m sure you’ve had all you can stomach for now, but I promise to be back soon. Sooner than last time. Definitely sooner than the time before that……..
